Les Arcs is one of the great French ski areas. Its four villages, Arc 1600, 1800, 1950 and 2000, sit between 1,600m and 2,000m on a broad, north-west-facing mountainside above the Tarentaise valley, with around 200km of pistes of their own and lifts up to 3,226m on the Aiguille Rouge. The Vanoise Express cable car links across to La Plagne, and together the two resorts make the Paradiski: 425km of piste on one pass.
The skiing suits everyone. Long, tree-lined blues and reds drop through the forest to the villages and the hamlets below; the high bowls above Arc 2000 and the Aiguille Rouge give strong skiers a 7km, 2,000-vertical-metre black to Villaroger; Peisey-Vallandry on the far side is quieter and sheltered on a snowy day. Snow parks, the speed-skiing track from the 1992 Olympics and plenty of gentle beginner zones fill in the rest.
What makes Les Arcs unusual is how easy it is to reach. Bourg-Saint-Maurice, the market town at the bottom of the valley, has a railway station with direct TGV and Eurostar ski services, and the free Les Arcs Express funicular climbs from the station to Arc 1600 in seven minutes, stopping at the hamlet of Les Granges on the way. No car, no hairpins, no transfer coach.
Les Granges is where we are. It is an old farming hamlet at 1,222m on the mountainside, a cluster of stone-and-timber chalets d'alpage that pre-date the purpose-built resort by a couple of centuries. Two pistes from Arc 1600 finish at the hamlet, so you ski home, and the funicular stop is a couple of minutes' walk. Our catered Chalet La Grange d'Alice is one of those old chalets, restored with its beams, stone and log fire intact.
Off the slopes, Bourg-Saint-Maurice does the real-town things a purpose-built resort cannot: a Saturday market, proper Savoyard restaurants, an aquatic centre and a supermarket. Up the hill, Arc 1800 has the liveliest apres and Arc 1950 the prettiest village. The season runs from mid-December to late April.


